How Copenhagen Redefined Global Gastronomy with New Nordic Cuisine

Copenhagen. It’s a city synonymous with design, hygge, and a cycling culture that puts the rest of the world to shame. But in the last two decades, the Danish capital has quietly, yet decisively, reshaped the global culinary landscape, giving birth to a movement known as New Nordic Cuisine or Nordisk Mad. Forget what you thought you knew about Scandinavian food. This isn’t just about meatballs and herring (though they have their place!). New Nordic Cuisine is a philosophy, a revolution, and a delicious journey back to the roots of a region, all while pushing the boundaries of innovation. The Manifesto That Started a Movement The story of New Nordic Cuisine truly began in 2004 when a group of influential Nordic chefs, spearheaded by, among others, René Redzepi of NOMA, drafted the “New Nordic Cuisine Manifesto.” This wasn’t just a list of ingredients; it was a declaration of intent, outlining ten principles that would guide their culinary endeavors: At its core, it was a call to look inwards, to celebrate and innovate with the incredible bounty of the Nordic region – from its cold waters to its vast forests and fertile, if sometimes challenging, lands. What Does New Nordic Cuisine Taste Like? Imagine foraging for ingredients in a nearby forest, pulling fresh seafood straight from the Øresund, or sourcing vegetables from a local farm just hours before they hit your plate. That’s the essence. Menus change not just monthly, but sometimes weekly or even daily, reflecting exactly what’s at its peak. Ingredients are sourced almost exclusively from the Nordic region, fostering a connection between plate and place. And then it gets weird The confusion arose at a later point for a number of reasons. If I’m not eating at NOMA, what should I eat in Copenhagen? Smørrebrød (open face sandwiches) of course. A thin compact slice of dark rye bread with a primary topping of pork or fish, with a number of additiona toppings. We can recommend restaurant Maven, right across the intersection from our shop, or – if you are ready to work for it – the amazingly good and authentic Boulevarden 129 (Amager Boulevarden 129, 2300 København S). A hotdog! Yeah, it sounds weird. You can get a hotdog anywhere in the world. But the thing with the hotdogs in Copenhagen is that they have something unique in common with the Smørrebrød: The number of toppings is ridiculous!Go to a hotdog stand in the pedestrian streets and ask for a grilled hotdog with everything. From that point, what ever they ask you, say “Yes!” Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen

A Cyclist’s Paradise

Copenhagen. The very name often conjures images of picturesque canals, colourful houses and design shops. But for anyone who’s truly experienced the Danish capital, one image stands out above all else: bicycles. Everywhere. It’s not just a mode of transport in Copenhagen; it’s the very pulse of the city, a deeply ingrained cultural phenomenon, and a testament to decades of visionary urban planning. If you want to understand what makes Copenhagen tick, you need to understand its unparalleled bike culture and the infrastructure that supports it. A City Built for Two Wheels Imagine a city where cycling isn’t just an option, but often the fastest and most convenient way to get around. That’s Copenhagen. Over half of all Copenhageners commute to work or school by bike daily. That’s not just a statistic; it’s a living, breathing reality you witness every moment you’re here. The reasons for this widespread adoption are clear: Countless books have been published about bicycles in Copenhagen, including “The Bicycles of Copenhagen” by photographer Martin Dybdal. Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen

Reffen

The history of Reffen in Copenhagen is tied to the city’s street food scene and the industrial past of its location. The precursor, Copenhagen Street Food, was pioneered by restaurateur Jesper Møller, who first established a popular street food market called Copenhagen Street Food on Papirøen (Paper Island) in 2014. This market closed in late 2017 due to the temporary nature of its contract, and construction of housing and commercial buildings on the site begun emmediately after. Reffen is located on the artificial island of Refshaleøen (of which “Reffen” is a slang nickname). For over a hundred years, this island was a major industrial site, home to the Burmeister & Wain (B&W) Shipyard, which was one of Europe’s largest until it closed in 1996. After its closure, the area became a neglected industrial wasteland. Reffen (officially Reffen – Copenhagen Street Food) opened its doors in May 2018 on the former shipyard grounds of Refshaleøen. It was created as the successor to the Papirøen market. Reffen was designed to be much more than just a food market. It is Northern Europe’s largest street food market and an urban area for start-ups, innovation, and creative workshops, embracing a “Reduce and Reuse” philosophy. The stalls are often housed in repurposed shipping containers and the design is deliberately industrial, yet very colourful. It aims to provide a platform for new culinary entrepreneurs. Reffen operates seasonally (typically from spring through autumn) and is a vibrant cultural hotspot offering a diverse array of global street food, bars, cultural events, and art installations, contributing significantly to the revitalization of the Refshaleøen area. The future of Reffen is closely tied to the long-term urban development plans for its location, Refshaleøen, which is one of the last large industrial areas in Copenhagen to be transformed. The island of Refshaleøen, where Reffen is located, is owned by a property company and is slated for significant, large-scale urban development. This is a common pattern in Copenhagen where former industrial harbor areas are converted into new mixed-use neighborhoods, primarily for housing. This development plan, announced in early 2023, poses a risk to the current, temporary, and unpolished “klondike” aesthetic and creative culture that Reffen and its neighbors (like music venues and art centers) represent. The concern is that this could lead to the classic gentrification pattern seen elsewhere in the city, replacing creative, affordable spaces with generic, high-end housing. While Reffen is a successful, established venture, its ultimate fate rests on the final master plan for the island. The developers are aware of the importance of the existing cultural hubs like Reffen, but their long-term position is not permanently secured against future construction. In the short to medium term, Reffen is working to solidify its presence and enhance its appeal. Recent efforts include extending its operational season deeper into autumn and winter (often to include a Christmas market and an ice skating rink, Skøjteøen) to become a year-round destination rather than just a summer market. Reffen continues to strengthen its role as an entrepreneurial platform, not just for food stalls but also for creative workshops and cultural events, making it a more integral and high-value part of the city’s cultural life. Its founding principles of “Reduce and Reuse” and its commitment to sustainable practices (using recycled materials, compostable packaging) align with Copenhagen’s future-forward image, which may help bolster its case for preservation in the face of development. Reffen is currently thriving as Northern Europe’s largest street food market and a vital cultural center. Its immediate future is stable, marked by seasonal openings and a push toward year-round operation. However, its long-term future is uncertain and dependent on how the owners and city planners choose to execute the major urban transformation of Refshaleøen. The key question is whether Reffen can survive as an affordable, creative, and “raw” destination within a newly developed, highly polished urban district. Right now the plot is affordable due to its inaccesability, as the trip from central Copenhagen to Reffen, regardless of choice of transportation, will take about 35 minutes. As the new artificial island Lynetteholmen takes shape there are plans for a new Metro line, and debates about a bridge across the inner habour, making Refshaleøen very accesible, and the value (meaning price) of the land skyrocket. Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen

Cactus Towers

Copenhagen’s skyline is a blend of historic spires and modern, sustainable architecture, but few recent additions are as instantly recognizable — or as debated — as the two towers near Dybbølsbro: the Cactus Towers (Kaktustårnene). These spiky structures, whose facades bristle with angular balconies, represent more than just modern aesthetics; they are a striking answer to the city’s urgent need for affordable, high-density housing. The Vision of BIG and the Prickly Design The genesis of the Kaktus Towers lies with the renowned Danish architectural firm, BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group). In 2017, BIG unveiled the ambitious design as part of a larger urban redevelopment effort in the Kalvebod Brygge area. The towers earn their botanical name from their unmistakable exterior. Rather than a typical rectilinear high-rise, the design is structured around a central, hexagonal core. Each floor plate is slightly rotated, or “twisted,” and cantilevered out, creating a cascade of sharp, angular balconies that spiral up the building. This architectural choice gives the structure its unforgettable, prickly silhouette, a clear visual reference to a cactus. The final construction resulted in two twin towers, one rising to approximately 80 meters and the other to 60 meters, collectively providing a significant number of new homes on a compact footprint. An Innovative Answer to Urban Living Beyond the dramatic exterior, the Kaktus Towers were engineered to solve a critical contemporary urban challenge: how to house nearly 500 young people and single residents affordably in the expensive city center. The project embraces a micro-apartment or “co-living” model, where individual units are kept small—typically ranging from 33 to 53 square meters—to maximize density and keep rental costs manageable. This approach is summarized by the philosophy: “Sleep in the apartment – live in the building.” The design compensates for the small private spaces by prioritizing massive shared facilities. Residents gain access to expansive communal lounges, shared kitchens, party rooms, and indoor and outdoor fitness areas that encourage social interaction and foster a strong sense of community. The two towers are even physically linked at their base by an elevated, sloped public park and commercial plaza, creating a functional, green hub for both residents and the surrounding neighborhood. Completion and a Mixed Legacy The Kaktus Towers began construction around 2019 and were structurally completed, welcoming their first residents, around mid-2022. The remaining communal facilities and the public park were finalized over the next couple of years. Like many of BIG’s provocative buildings, the Kaktus Towers sparked public debate, with some critics questioning the angular aesthetics and the small living spaces. However, the project has also earned significant international recognition. It has received prestigious accolades, including being named a winner in the category of Europe’s Best Tall Building by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat, celebrating its innovative blend of economical construction and striking design. The towers stand today as a bold, contemporary statement, demonstrating a clever architectural solution to urban density. Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen

Christiania

The story of Freetown Christiania is not just a history; it is a living, turbulent saga of an improbable dream carved out of a forgotten corner of Copenhagen—an anarchist commune existing within one of the world’s most orderly countries. The Birth of the Free State (1971) The stage was set on the tranquil island of Christianshavn, where lay the sprawling, abandoned Bådsmandsstræde military barracks. For years, the land—a mix of old fortifications, overgrown parkland, and derelict buildings—had been silently guarded by a rusty fence. It was 1971, and the world was alight with counter-culture movements. Copenhagen, a city known for its civility, soon found itself home to a bold act of rebellion. The local families, fed up with the lack of decent playgrounds, simply cut a hole in the fence. What began as a space for children quickly blossomed into something far grander. Waves of squatters—hippies, activists, artists, and idealists—poured in, claiming the deserted barracks. They saw not decay, but potential. A visionary journalist named Jacob Ludvigsen then famously declared the area a Freetown, independent of Danish law. Their creed was simple, radical, and utopian: to create a self-governing society where the well-being of the whole was the responsibility of every individual. They raised their own flag, crafted their own rules (no hard drugs, no guns, no violence), and set about building a new world. The Golden Age and the Shadow In its early years, Christiania was a vibrant, chaotic, and inspiring utopia. The residents, known as Christianites, began to construct homes with found materials, leading to the district’s wildly imaginative and self-built architecture. Old stables were turned into theaters, and military buildings became communal living spaces. They established their own collective economy, bicycle workshops, bakeries, and music venues. It was an explosion of creativity and political idealism. The Danish government, unsure how to handle a peaceful but illegal occupation in the heart of its capital, adopted a reluctant neutrality, labeling Christiania a “social experiment” and letting it run its course. Yet, a shadow soon fell over the Freetown. Due to the lack of police presence and the Christianites’ strong belief in non-interference, a central walkway in the Freetown became known as Pusher Street. Here, cannabis was sold openly, creating a lucrative, unregulated market. For a time, some argued that concentrating the hash trade minimized its spread elsewhere in the city. However, the trade eventually attracted organized criminal gangs, and the initial ideals of communal freedom began to rub uncomfortably against the reality of crime and violence. The Battle for the Dream The next four decades were defined by a relentless tug-of-war between the Christianites and the Danish state. The government repeatedly tried to evict the squatters, taking the case to Denmark’s Supreme Court, which ruled that the state had the right to clear the area. But the community, supported by massive public sympathy and fierce resistance, refused to budge. The Christianites won the moral battle again and again, ensuring their survival. The true turning point came in the 21st century. After years of legal wrangling, a monumental agreement was reached in 2011/2012. The residents, in a move that legitimized their existence, agreed to form a foundation to purchase and lease the land from the state. The anarchists became reluctant property owners, saving their Freetown through a collective sacrifice of principle. The final, dramatic chapter in this ongoing story unfolded recently. After a series of violent incidents tied to the cannabis trade, the residents themselves decided to reclaim their neighborhood from the gangs. In a profoundly symbolic act in 2024, Christianites gathered to dig up the cobblestones of Pusher Street, formally declaring an end to the open drug market and signaling a collective return to their founding ethos of peace and community control. Today, Christiania endures—a captivating, sometimes troubled, but always fiercely independent haven. It remains a magnet for tourists and a living testament to the powerful, enduring human desire for an alternative way of life. Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen

Most awards goes to… Copenhagen!

Copenhagen is a magnet to visitors for a long range of reasons. It’s charms and querkiness, along with a long list of important conferences attracts the attention of many people, but in recent years the city has made the headlines in international media on a whole new scale.In June 2025 both Global Liveability Index and The Economist ranked Copenhagen the “Most Liveable City in the World”, just like Monocle’s Quality of Life Survey has done a number of times. Copenhagen is named the Happiest City in the World on the Happy City Index 2025, praised for its transparency in governance, commitment to education and innovation, and quality of life.Copenhagen was even designated the UNESCO-UIA “World Capital of Architecture” for 2023, and home to the “World’s Best Restaurant” (NOMA) multiple years in a row.The city was even ranked 1st for work-life balance by Forbes in 2023, and the “Safest city in the world” since 2021. Copenhagen is consistently ranked as one of the world’s most sustainable cities, placing highly on the Global Destination Sustainability Index, and ranked the “World’s most sustainable destination” (Travelers’ Choice, 2024).Ther next award will probably be the most award-winning city…The most important award, to us, however, is “The Most Bike friendly Capital in the World” (2024). The city boasts five times more bikes than cars.Biking in Copenhagen is very easy. The city has 546 kilometers of bike paths. About 65% of residents ride bikes to work. On average, Copenhageners cycle 3 km daily, citing efficiency as the primary reason — they simply find it the fastest and most effective way to get around.Copenhagen is not famous for extravagant landmarks, but excels in the everyday marvels: Human-centred architecture and urban planning shape the frames of everyday life, where the city offers inviting public spaces.Copenhageners use their city as an urban living room. Public zones along the water front, carefuly designed edge zones around buildings, and unwalled school playgrounds are all examples of a trustful city planning, and illustates the safety and social security that makes Copenhagen a city to be experienced not only gazing up a historic masterpiece but in the streets where we live. Hasse “Hassan” Sørensen